Tuesday, 12 March 2013

Lingerie Development & Toiling

For the lingerie project, I hadn't completely finished any designs but I know that my concept is 1950's lingerie. Its a shame we don't have the correct machinery to enable me to make a professional bra in the old 1950's style, so I'm just taking inspiration from the lace they used and the pastel colours seen around this time. I'm also taking some inspiration combined from both these images of old lingerie.


 
 
(both images from fashionera.com)
 
 
 I began to draft my own pattern from one I bought that came with a lingerie book. I changed the shape of the cup and added a seam down the centre front. It comes to the waist like the one in the top image here.
 



 
These are my own photographs of my work. The first too are the finished pattern. The second two are my patterns being cut out of the lace. The lace I've got is stretchy.
 



 
Next, I cut out and sewed together the cups and then pinned them on the stand. I loved how they came out, I think the shape looks really good. I chose to use a normal 1cm seam. As this is the toile version, I didn't overlock or french seam or anything so this is something I might practice before the real thing.
 
I then moved onto constructing the part around the body under the bust. With the pattern I had previously made, I cut it out of lace and pinned it on the stand and found it was too small so I adapted the pattern and then cut it out in lace to the correct lenth.
 
 
 
I am pleased with the shape of this. I thought I would have to change it as maybe I wouldn't have liked the shape but actually it works and I like it. It fits snuggly under the bust which is just what I wanted . The lace on the stand actually had seam allowence on it so when it is sewn, it sits exactly on the waist which is what I wanted it to look like, no longer than that. As you can see, I pinned the centre front seam together. I like the seam being at the front rather than the back. I think it suits the style of the bralet. I love the shape of it under the bust too.
 


 
 
Finally, I sewed eveything together. The first image is the final outcome. I am so happy with how this toile came out. I thought it needed a finising touch on the raw edges so I attached a thin lace trim around the edges of the whole thing. I think this looks good enough to be the real thing.
I am glad that I decided the toile the entire garment instead of just making the real thing first which is what I normally do. I wanted to understand how I'm going to put the garment together first and now I feel I can make the real garment quicker. On the real one, I think I am going to add some sort of straps to it. 
I have also constructed a pattern for some matching knickers so I will be making a 2 piece set of the bralet and a pair of knickers. They will be made from the same lace and have a matching trim around the edges. The following images are the outcomes of the pattern making.


 
I feel that this toiling development has really helped me make my decision on what I'm going to make and how I'm going to go about it. I think that toiling is definately worth doing before you make the garment so you can adjust anything, change things if you don't like the look of the garment, maybe if the shape or style isn't right. I shall toile the knickers in the correct fabric. The fabric I used in these images isn't what I will make them out of, its just what I had at home.
This is something I will definately continue on with in the final year as it will help me to get my garments in my final collection as spot on as they can be.
 
 

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